Art Is Everywhere In This Swiss Locale
Montreux, Switzerland
High in the sky in the Swiss village of Chexbres is Domaine Bovy. The family-owned winery has been making wine for centuries.
Set in what is called the Montreux Riviera on the shores of Lake Geneva, the area features a mosaic of landscapes. There's the hilly Lavaux vineyards which were deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site, picturesque towns that hug the coastline and cities like Montreux and Vevey. Domaine Bovy, in an area called the Balcony of Lake Geneva, appears to overlook it all.
The Bovy family purchased the vineyard in 1779. Its origins date back to the 16th century. Their veranda alone, which opens out to a breathtaking view of the sapphire lake and snow-covered peaks, is a showstopper. "The view can change ten times a day, depending on weather and the season," says the winery's co-owner Alexandra Bovy, "But my favorite moments remain sunrise and sunset."
And then there's the wine. Known for its excellent terroir, the iconic chasselas, the white grape grown in Switzerland that has a light, refreshing, subtle taste, has been grown in the region since the 12th Century. Also, Domaine Bovy produces new grape varieties, like pinots gris, gewürztraminer, viognier, gamay and gamaret.
In addition to all that Domaine Bovy has a long tradition of painting their giant wine barrels, turning them into works of art. Since the 1940s, inspired by the daily lives of winegrowers, Maurice Bovy painted elaborate tableaux on the barrels. After he died in 1995, Maxime Bovy, a forth generation family member, continued the tradition painting new barrels. "His first barrel depicted a portrait of Maurice Bovy to play homage to his grandfather," says Alexandra Bovy. "The paintings were all restored in 2024 in our desire to preserve our heritage."
Art and extraordinary experiences are everywhere in the Montreux Rivera. Since 1967, this Swiss enclave has been the home of the Montreux Jazz Festival. It's where guide Pascal Pouly takes people on adventures of a lifetime on snowmobiles and e-bikes meandering through vineyards and small charming lakeside towns. It's where Charlie Chaplin lived for 25 years at his 37-acre estate, Manoir de Ban.
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Freddie Mercury and the Queen escaped to the region and recorded their albums in Montreux. In their song, "A Winter's Tale," they wrote, "Tranquil and blissful. There's a kind of magic in the air. What a truly magnificent view. A breathtaking scene. With the dreams of the world. In the palm of your hand."
The sense of art is accessible to visitors who come from around the world. At Le Mirador Resort & Spa in Mont Pelerin where guests can arrive via funicular from Vevey, lifelike and whimsical John Seward Johnson bronze statues are sprinkled throughout the property. In one, titled "a little to the right," a life-size couple soaks in the panoramic view above the clouds overlooking Lake Geneva and the snow-covered peaks. Art is also in nearby Chillon Castle which dates back to the 12th Century and offers a window into life in the middle ages. And it's at Le Chalet du Mont Pèlerin, a cozy eatery which serves food grown and raised from the region's small producers.
Another treasure in the region is the restaurant Kaiseki by Manabu. Set in the Belle Époque Hôtel Des Trois Couronnes, the waterfront eatery offers authentic Japanese cuisine from chef Alastair Long. It celebrates the art of Kaiseki-ryori balancing the flavor, texture, and color of each dish. "We aim to explore the philosophy of Japanese cuisine, rather than imitate it. And we strive to be authentically inauthentic, through our dishes or the contrast of the Hotel's dining room with the food we offer," says Long who serves as chef de cuisine. "It shouldn't make sense. Yet somehow it does."
An eclectic dish at Manabu
Long is originally from Scotland and grew up in Manchester. He ultimately discovered his passion for Japanese cuisine when he was 18 and then trained with Gordon Ramsay at his Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant.
Devoted to creating unique experiences for guests that ignites curiosity, Long makes some bold flavor combinations, like the dish with scallop, pancetta and yuzu granita or grilled freshwater eel, caramelized foie gras, tarragon gel and oxalis. They also create their own house-pickled ginger and fresh wasabi.
Long fell in love with Japanese cuisine by accident. When studying German and European law at the University of Manchester Long was hungry to experience the city's vast cultural scene, but he needed money.
He saw a sign in the window of a small sushi bar near where he lived. "Help Wanted. £5 per hour, Cash Paid. "Needless to say, I took the job and very quickly fell in love with what would become my career," he says. "Japanese food illustrates how simplicity can give the guest the greatest complexity and plethora of feelings. I relish that paradox and the contrast to traditional gastronomy."
Long originally came to Switzerland to teach modern Japanese gastronomy at the prestigious Glion Institute of Higher Education, a top hotel management school. "It was a stark contrast to the career I'd had before, which was very fast paced, chasing stars and managing large teams," he says.
I took a real pleasure during three years of teaching students rather than professionals and noticed that when it came to thinking outside of the box, the students had a lot more to offer me than I to them." In fact, he finds it fitting that the name Manabu means "to learn." As Long explains, "That is where we are. We are still learning."
Living in Vevey continues to fuel Long's passion and curiosity. "It's a small city with a big city vibe, meaning we get to enjoy the best of both worlds," he says. Long shares that on the way to an art exhibition he can easily run into friends, colleagues and neighbors, stopping several times. And they can linger afterward at a cafe in the buzzy Place du Marché (or main square).
"There is something unique and inspiring in the very ambience of this place," he says. "I wake up with the same mountain view I saw almost six years ago. And when I remember to look, it makes me feel energized."
Chef Alastair Long
A table with a Lake Geneva view at Manabu
Domaine Bovy
Domaine Bovy has a tradition of painting its barrels in colorful detail
The vineyards at Lavaux. The ancient wine-growing region is also UNESCO World Heritage site.
Chillon Castle holds a treasure trove of Swiss and world architectural heritage.
A view from Le Mirador Resort and Spa. The bronze statue of the couple pictured at the railing was ... [+] created by artist Seward Johnson II
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